Catfish
This diverse group of fish includes a staggering number of species, from small peaceful shoaling fish to large solitary predators. Originating from all over the world, catfish are typically undemanding of water quality, but it is important to check for any species-specific requirements. All catfish have sensitive, whisker-like barbels on their heads, therefore sand or fine gravel should be used as a substrate to avoid injury. Discover the joys of owning these intriguing fish and learn how to create their perfect habitat.
What next?
View the information below to learn the essentials for owning catfish.
Take the test, and when you have passed, you will receive a certificate to show to your pet shop and prove your knowledge.
Information for owning catfish
The Pet Know How tests are designed to test your basic knowledge of keeping a pet of your choice. They will help you understand the needs of the animal and some of the important things you need to consider if you were to have one as a pet. Once you complete a test you won’t be an expert keeper but you will be in a better position to make an informed decision and decide if you are able, and willing, to take on the responsibility.
In this section, you will find a wealth of knowledge compiled by pet experts to provide you with the valuable information you need regarding owning catfish.
Work your way through all the sections, and when you feel ready, register yourself to take the test and earn a certificate that proves your catfish knowledge.
Introduction
Catfish are a large group of fish which contains many species. These originate from all over the world but the majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred. Due to their diversity, catfish can range from small and peaceful to large and predatory. Always consult your OATA retailer before purchasing any catfish, as some can grow very large.
Biology
There is a huge number of catfish species, however popular groups in the aquarium trade include corydoras, plecos and syndodontis.
Catfish range in size from small species such as Otocinclus (4cm), to red tailed catfish which can grow up to a metre. Regardless of size, these fish can live for several years in a well-matured set up with good water quality.
Some species, such as Corydoras, are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five. Those which are kept singly or in groups that are too small will often become stressed. Other species will need lots of space and will prefer to live alone.
Sexing catfish can be difficult, however some species, such as bristlenose catfish, can have obvious differences between male and female.
Care should be taken when handling catfish as most have spines on their front (pectoral) fins and just behind their gills.
A healthy fish should.....
Have clear bright eyes
Have undamaged fins
Have intact scales
Have no ulcerations or bumps
Have appropriate swimming behaviour
Have steady breathing
Do not purchase a seemingly healthy fish if sickly fish are present in the tank with it. Signs of disease can include clamped fins, flicking against gravel or décor and shimmying (shaking). Diseases can be easily carried by fish that do not show any clinical signs. If in doubt, ask your OATA retailer for advice as they will have in-depth knowledge and experience.
Water requirements
Catfish are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below. These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with your OATA retailer for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.0-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-hard (4-18°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-hard (3-15°dkH)
Aquarium requirements
As a general rule, you should within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible. It is recommended that an aquarium of at least 80 litres is used for a shoal of the smaller species, such as Corydoras or for the smaller pleco species. However, much larger aquariums will be needed for bigger species, so ask your OATA retailer for guidance. The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be. Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Aquarium requirements continued
Again, tank requirements will vary for different species. For smaller or more shy species, the tank should ideally have live plants present to provide cover. Since some species may eat or dig up live plants, the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended. Many catfish will also appreciate shelter in the form of wood, pots or caves. Other larger or more active species may prefer to have more open space and a cluttered aquarium may inhibit their movement. All catfish have sensitive barbels on their head, so aquarium sand or fine gravel should be placed on the bottom of the aquarium to prevent injury to them.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round. To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources. It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements. Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Checking your aquarium
Before adding any fish, seek advice from your OATA retailer to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the catfish you would like to keep. Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero. Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases. Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’. This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Introducing your fish
Your OATA retailer will usually sell your fish to you in a plastic bag. Catfish species should be double bagged to prevent any sharp spines causing a leak. Try not to keep them in this for too long. Once purchased, take your new fish home as quickly as possible because fish are easily stressed by bright lights, extreme temperatures, noise and movement.
Once home, your fish will need to acclimatise to their new environment and a common method of doing this is known as the ‘floating bag’ method. Switch off the aquarium lights and take the bag containing your new fish out of its outer wrappings carefully, avoiding exposure to bright light. Float the bag in the water of your tank to ensure the temperature in the bag is the same as the aquarium water. After 10 minutes, slowly introduce small amounts of aquarium water into the bag containing the fish for up to 20 minutes. Once complete, carefully release the fish into the aquarium whilst introducing as little bag water into the aquarium as possible. After this, dispose of the bag and any excess water appropriately. Monitor your new fish carefully for the first week, paying particular attention to water quality. If in doubt, contact your OATA retailer for advice.
Maintenance
Maintain the water in the aquarium within the accepted parameters highlighted in this guide. You may need to do regular water changes to achieve this.
Always buy test kits and regularly check the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. This will allow you to make sure the water in your aquarium is not causing welfare problems for your catfish. Establish a routine for testing the water in your aquarium. Record your results to enable you to identify fluctuations quickly and also check the temperature of the water.
Never siphon by mouth a fish tank can harbour bacteria which can be harmful if swallowed. Buy a specially designed aquarium gravel cleaner which can be started or primed without the need to place the siphon in your mouth. Always wash your hands making sure to rinse off all soap residues, before putting them into your aquarium, or use long sleeved rubber gloves. Wash your hands again afterwards and certainly before eating, drinking or smoking.
Maintenance continued
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated in this guide.
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel). The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up. Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media. Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as some catfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases. Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
Swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
Colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
Temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
Breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
Appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
Condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
Feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
If you are concerned about the health of any of your livestock, then test your water quality and contact your OATA retailer for further guidance.
Feeding
Catfish vary hugely in their dietary requirements. Some are omnivorous (such as Corydoras), some are herbivorous (such as plecos), and the more predatory species are carnivorous. Ask your OATA retailer for species-specific advice regarding feeding. Although they have a reputation as scavengers, catfish should be fed the appropriate sinking foods to ensure their nutritional needs are met.
Catfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day. Some grazing species may take longer to feed, so allow 30 minutes if required. Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water. If in doubt, ask your OATA retailer for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Compatibility
Catfish vary in terms of compatibility. Corydoras, Otocinclus and smaller plecos make excellent additions to community aquariums. Other species can be extremely predatory and so should be mixed with caution. Always consult your OATA retailer before adding catfish into a community aquarium.
Breeding
Catfish are unlikely to breed in the home aquarium since many require changes in water conditions which should not be present in the home aquarium. For example, some species of pleco require a rapid drop in water temperature to stimulate spawning behaviour, which is something that should not be found in the home aquarium. The species most likely to breed are bristlenose catfish. The male will entice a female into a cave where she deposits her eggs. The male fertilises and then cares for the eggs until the fry are large enough to leave the cave. Some Corydoras species may also spawn in the home aquarium, and you may find eggs stuck to the aquarium glass or décor. These are unlikely to survive unless they are removed and reared in a dedicated set up with specialist fry foods.
Before purchasing your catfish
Before purchase make sure:
You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium
You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices are all compatible
You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish
You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will require
You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life
The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
Water parameters are as advised in this guide
Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish
Shopping list
Owning a pet is a financial as well as a moral responsibility. In order to properly care for a catfish the following items are essential and you should ensure that you are ready to commit to both the one-off and ongoing costs involved with having a pet.
Glass or acrylic aquarium
Filter
Heater
Lighting (required for live plants)
Gravel or sand
Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
Bucket for water changes
Pet code of practice
Owning a pet is a responsibility and owners must always ensure that they act in a way that ensures the best welfare for their pet and does not endanger the local ecosystem. Pet’s (companion animals) must never be released into the wild. It is illegal and for most species this will lead to an untimely and possibly lingering death, as they are not native to this country. Any animals or plants that do survive might become harmful to the environment. If you can no longer keep your pet then seek advice at a local pet store, rescue centre or specialist pet club.
Soiled substrate, cage décor and waste water, particularly from fish tanks or amphibian housing, should also be carefully disposed of or treated so that potentially harmful diseases or live food can’t escape into the wild.
Are you ready?
Now that you have made your way through the presentation, it’s time to take the test and move one step closer to proving your knowledge and receiving your certificate.
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