Freshwater Shrimp and Snails
These charming invertebrates are not only compelling pets to own but can benefit your aquarium by helping to control nuisance algae. Shrimp are happiest in a group and if you’re lucky you may see a female with an abdomen full of eggs! Snails are not social creatures and should not be mixed with fish which might see them as a tasty snack. Discover the exciting world of owning these curious invertebrates and learn how to create their ideal habitat.
What next?
View the information below to learn the essentials for owning freshwater shrimp and snails.
Take the test, and when you have passed, you will receive a certificate to show to your pet shop and prove your knowledge.
Information for owning freshwater shrimp and snails
The Pet Know How tests are designed to test your basic knowledge of keeping a pet of your choice. They will help you understand the needs of the animal and some of the important things you need to consider if you were to have one as a pet. Once you complete a test you won’t be an expert keeper but you will be in a better position to make an informed decision and decide if you are able, and willing, to take on the responsibility.
In this section, you will find a wealth of knowledge compiled by pet experts to provide you with the valuable information you need regarding owning freshwater shrimp and snails.
Work your way through all the sections, and when you feel ready, register yourself to take the test and earn a certificate that proves your freshwater shrimp and snail knowledge.
Introduction
Freshwater shrimp and snails are popular aquarium inhabitants as they help to control nuisance algae. They vary in their distribution, but most of those popular in the trade originate from Asia or Africa. However, most individuals sold for aquariums are bred in captivity. Freshwater shrimp and snails make good aquarium inhabitants, but they should be mixed with caution as they may be eaten by common aquarium fish.
Biology
The two most popular shrimp species are Amano shrimp (Caridina japonica) and colour variants of Caridina cantonensis, which include cherry and bee shrimp. Amano shrimp grow slightly larger (5cm) than the smaller species (3cm) but are not as colourful. There are many snail species which are popular in aquariums, such as apple, nerite and assassin snails. They come in various colours, shapes and sizes but are unlikely to grow any larger than 5cm. Freshwater shrimp and snails are not particularly long-lived, but they can live for a couple of years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality.
Being invertebrates, both freshwater shrimp and snails are very sensitive to copper and will die if exposed even to low levels. Always ensure that any treatments added to the aquarium are safe for invertebrates.
Whilst snails are not social creatures, shrimp species usually are and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium. Those which are kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed. It can be very difficult to identify the sex of freshwater snails, and some are hermaphrodites. Shrimp can easily be sexed because mature females will hold eggs under their abdomen. Shrimp frequently moult and so you should not be surprised if you see a ‘skin’ resembling that of a dead shrimp in your aquarium.
Water requirements
Freshwater shrimp and snails are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below. The parameters are a general guide for this group, so it is important to check with your OATA retailer for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Temperature: between 17-27°C
pH: 6.5-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-hard (4-18°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-hard (3-15°dkH)
Aquarium requirements
As a general rule, you should within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible. It is recommended that an aquarium of at least 10 litres is used for a group of small freshwater shrimp or snails. Larger species, such as apple snails or Amano shrimp, will require a slightly larger aquarium of approximately 20 litres. This will need to be larger if keeping freshwater shrimp or snails with any fish species. The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be. Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Aquarium requirements continued
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover. If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which provides the shrimp with shelter. Sand or fine gravel is important for some species as they need to be able to move through it to find food. A cover is also a good idea to prevent snails from escaping and shrimp from jumping out.
For some species a heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round. To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources. It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements. Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Checking your aquarium
Before adding any freshwater shrimp or snail, seek advice from your OATA retailer to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the species you would like to keep. Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero. Only increase the number of shrimp or snails you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more livestock are added and feeding increases. Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’. This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the inhabitants, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause freshwater shrimp and snails to become ill or die.
Introducing your freshwater shrimp and snails
Your OATA retailer will usually sell your freshwater shrimp and snails to you in a plastic bag. Try to avoid keeping them in this for too long. Once purchased, take your new livestock home as quickly as possible because they are easily stressed by bright lights, extreme temperatures, noise and movement.
Once home, your freshwater shrimp or snails will need to acclimatise to their new environment and a common method of doing this is known as the ‘floating bag’ method. Switch off the aquarium lights and take the bag containing your new livestock out of its outer wrappings carefully, avoiding exposure to bright light. Float the bag in the water of your tank to ensure the temperature in the bag is the same as the aquarium water. After 10 minutes, slowly introduce small amounts of aquarium water into the bag containing the shrimp or snail for at least 30 minutes. Once complete, carefully release the shrimp or snails whilst introducing as little bag water into the aquarium as possible. After this, dispose of the bag and any excess water appropriately. It is important to take your time during this process as invertebrates are prone to shock from sudden changes in water chemistry. Monitor your new shrimp or snails carefully for the first week, paying particular attention to water quality. If in doubt, contact your OATA retailer for advice.
Maintenance
Maintain the water in the aquarium within the accepted parameters highlighted in this guide. You may need to do regular water changes to achieve this.
Always buy test kits and regularly check the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. This will allow you to make sure the water in your aquarium is not causing welfare problems for your freshwater shrimp or snail. Establish a routine for testing the water in your aquarium. Record your results to enable you to identify fluctuations quickly and also check the temperature of the water.
Never siphon by mouth a fish tank can harbour bacteria which can be harmful if swallowed. Buy a specially designed aquarium gravel cleaner which can be started or primed without the need to place the siphon in your mouth. Always wash your hands making sure to rinse off all soap residues, before putting them into your aquarium, or use long sleeved rubber gloves. Wash your hands again afterwards and certainly before eating, drinking or smoking.
Maintenance continued
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated in this guide.
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel). The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up. Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media. Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as freshwater shrimp and snails can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases. Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra livestock.
What to watch out for
All animals will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
Behaviour – lethargic, hanging out in the open, sitting on the bottom or erratic movements
Colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
Temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
Breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
Appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of body parts
Feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
If you are concerned about the health of any of your livestock, then test your water quality and contact your OATA retailer for further guidance.
Feeding
Freshwater shrimp and snails are generally herbivorous and will graze on algae in the aquarium. This should be supplemented with algae wafers to ensure they are being given enough food. There are commercial pellets which are made for freshwater shrimp that can also be used for both shrimp and snails. The assassin snail (Nassariidae species) predates on other snail species and is useful for controlling excessive snail populations, but they will also feed on commercially manufactured foods.
Freshwater shrimp and snails should only be fed two or three times a week. They will need time to eat and any pellets or wafers should be left for at least 30 minutes to allow them to feed. Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water. If in doubt, ask your OATA retailer for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Compatibility
Freshwater shrimp and snails are generally compatible with most species in the aquarium. Freshwater shrimp should not be mixed with any fish which can fit them in their mouth, or any species known to be predatory. Snails should not be mixed with fish that can eat them, such as pufferfish or loaches. Always check with your OATA retailer before mixing freshwater shrimp or snails with fish species.
Breeding
Breeding of freshwater shrimp and snails varies greatly. Colour morphs of Caridina cantonensis, will reproduce on their own, provided there is enough protective cover and food for young shrimp. This is also true of some snail species, such as apple snails, which reproduce frequently under the right conditions. Other species, such as Amano shrimp, are unlikely to breed in home aquariums because the larvae are planktonic, require brackish water and have specific food requirements. A specialised set-up is required for best success with all freshwater shrimp and snail species.
Before purchasing your freshwater shrimp and snails
Before purchasing your freshwater shrimp and snails make sure:
You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium
You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices are all compatible
You are familiar with how to transport and release your shrimp and snail
You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will require
You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life
The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
Water parameters are as advised in this guide
Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive invertebrates
Shopping list
Owning a pet is a financial as well as a moral responsibility. In order to properly care for freshwater shrimp and snail the following items are essential and you should ensure that you are ready to commit to both the one-off and ongoing costs involved with having a pet.
Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
Bucket for water changes
Glass or acrylic aquarium
Filter
Heater
Lighting (required for live plants)
Gravel or sand
Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
Pet code of practice
Owning a pet is a responsibility and owners must always ensure that they act in a way that ensures the best welfare for their pet and does not endanger the local ecosystem. Pet’s (companion animals) must never be released into the wild. It is illegal and for most species this will lead to an untimely and possibly lingering death, as they are not native to this country. Any animals or plants that do survive might become harmful to the environment. If you can no longer keep your pet then seek advice at a local pet store, rescue centre or specialist pet club.
Soiled substrate, cage décor and waste water, particularly from fish tanks or amphibian housing, should also be carefully disposed of or treated so that potentially harmful diseases or live food can’t escape into the wild.
Are you ready?
Now that you have made your way through the presentation, it’s time to take the test and move one step closer to proving your knowledge and receiving your certificate.
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