Leopard geckos
One of the most popular pet reptiles, Leopard Geckos, are wonderful lizards that are available in a range of stunning colours and patterns. They are ideal for those looking for their first pet reptile, being a small, friendly species which rarely tries to bite and will tolerate occasional handling once accustomed to it. Like all reptiles, they need the correct environment created by specialist heating and lighting equipment, and any new owner needs to allow for these costs.
Leopard Geckos will require daily attention for the whole of their life, and they may live for 20 years. That’s quite some commitment so make sure you are ready for the responsibility of becoming a Leopard gecko owner!
If you are ready to take on the responsibility, you will have many years of enjoying the company of your pet Gecko. Don’t guess if this is the right pet for you; take the Leopard Gecko care test and find out.
What next?
View the information below to learn the essentials for owning a pet leopard gecko.
Take the test, and when you have passed, you will receive a certificate to show to your pet shop and prove your knowledge.
Information for owning a pet leopard gecko
The Pet Know How tests are designed to test your basic knowledge of keeping a pet of your choice. They will help you understand the needs of the animal and some of the important things you need to consider if you were to have one as a pet. Once you complete a test you won’t be an expert keeper but you will be in a better position to make an informed decision and decide if you are able, and willing, to take on the responsibility.
In this section, you will find a wealth of knowledge compiled by pet experts to provide you with the valuable information you need regarding owning a pet leopard gecko.
Work your way through all the sections, and when you feel ready, register yourself to take the test and earn a certificate that proves your leopard gecko knowledge.
Introduction
Leopard geckos are usually very docile and make good pets if the correct care and accommodation is provided. The average life span is approximately 15-20 years and adults can reach sizes of 20-30cm.
The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is one of the most popular species of reptile kept in captivity and is available in a multitude of colour mutations. In the wild, this species inhabits arid areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan and northern India. Leopard geckos are almost exclusively nocturnal in nature, although they may on occasion bask at the mouth of their burrows for short periods, usually in the morning and early evening.
Leopard geckos are not social animals, so they are best kept singularly.
DID YOU KNOW? Considerable care must be taken when handling geckos since the skin can split quite readily and, if handled inappropriately, they may also shed their tail.
General care
A healthy leopard gecko should be bright and alert. The body should be well covered with no signs of loose skin and in particular the tail should appear fat – as this mean they are well fed. There should be no signs of diarrhoea, the eyes, mouth and nostrils should be free of discharge and the body held off the ground when walking.
Diarrhoea: This can be caused by incorrect feeding or internal parasite infestation.
Mouth rot: Cheesy deposits appear in the mouth.
Respiratory problems: Signs include fluid or mucus from the nose. This can be caused by too low temperatures or too high humidity.
Metabolic bone diseases: Signs may include deformed or swollen limbs or jaws, paralysed hind limbs and /or abnormal twitching. This is due to a lack of calcium, vitamin D3 and/or lack of exposure to UVB light and heat. It can be stabilised if caught in time and properly treated.
If you are at all worried about the health of your leopard gecko you should consult your vet as soon as possible. It is recommended to seek a vet that has experience with reptiles.
Housing
A well ventilated, adequately heated, escape-proof vivarium is the best housing for leopard geckos. The depth needs to be sufficient to provide a depth of substrate, and the minimum size should be around 60x30cm for a single animal.
Lighting: Leopard geckos are nocturnal lizards and UVB lighting may not be essential if they are kept on a balanced diet with an adequate source of dietary calcium and vitamin D3. However, it is recommended to provide UVB from a suitable specialist UVB reptile lamp.
Humidity: Leopard geckos come from desert areas and require relatively low humidity and good ventilation. Provide an area of damp substrate under a hide at both ends of the accommodation to create a humid hide, especially during the skin shed periods (which can be every two-five weeks)
Furnishing their home
The floor of the cage should be covered with a suitable substrate, which your pet shop can advise on. Sand may be used but it is recommended to feed from a dish to prevent the animal ingesting too much sand whilst eating. Leopard geckos will only eat the sand if lacking in calcium so to prevent this ensures correct vivarium temperatures and supply an extra source of calcium.
It is very important to provide hiding places in both the cooler and hotter ends of the vivarium and to ensure that the substrate under at least one hide is kept relatively moist - which facilitates better skin shedding.
Piles of rocks, securely positioned slates and other such furnishings will be appreciated by your pet as enrichment.
Temperature
All reptiles are “cold blooded” and need an external heat source to maintain their body temperature. Each species of lizard requires different degrees of heating. One end of the vivarium should be heated to create a thermal gradient, allowing the pet to choose its preferred temperature. The ideal thermal gradient is 24-25°C at the cool end and 30-34°C at the hot end. Night temperature can be dropped by several degrees at both ends, which will benefit your pet as this reflects his natural environment.
A warm basking zone can be provided by using spot lights or heat lamps. Background or night time heat can be provided by using non-light emitting heaters. If heat mats are used then they must cover no more than 50% of the floor or wall area. Wall mounting is recommended but if used on the floor then great care must be taken that the mat is not thermally insulated by deep substrate or décor as this is a fire risk. All heat sources should be guarded to prevent burning and must be controlled using a suitable thermostat. Your pet shop can advise on suitable heating and temperature control products.
Thermometers should be placed at each end to monitor the temperature range and the maximum temperature of the heat gradient.
Hygiene
Remove droppings and any uneaten live food daily.
Water bowls should be washed, dried and refilled regularly.
Vivariums should be completely cleaned out and disinfected with a pet safe disinfectant on a regular basis.
Soiled substrate should be disposed of and replaced daily through a spot-cleaning regime.
Handling
Leopard Geckos will tolerate handling and can be tamed by frequent, short handling sessions every few days.
Leopard geckos are usually very docile and rarely bite. Movements should be slow and gentle but confident. To pick up your gecko, place one hand above the shoulders and support the underside with your other hand. Leopard Geckos will shed their tail if handled roughly or frightened so care should always be taken when handling. If this does happen it is a natural behavior and the tail will re-grow. When handling your gecko always make sure it is over a table or in your lap in case the animal is dropped by accident
Reptiles can carry a form of Salmonella, which can be transferred to humans. Good hygiene and washing your hands after handling your Leopard gecko should be sufficient to prevent any risk of infection.
Food and water
Leopard geckos are insectivorous and will eat a varied diet of live insects, including appropriately sized locust hoppers, crickets, wax moth larvae and mealworms. It is important to feed the live food a nutritious diet and water to ensure your pet is also receiving a balanced diet. This is also known as ‘gut loading’ the live food.
Feeding should ideally take place daily, but in limited quantities that are eaten within an hour or two – the enclosure should not have excess live food moving around the morning after feeding. Waxworm larvae and mealworms should be fed relatively sparingly as they have a high fat content. Remove any uneaten live food after a couple of hours as they annoy leopard geckos by nipping at them during the night.
It is very important that food should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement on a regular basis; once or twice a week for non-breeding adults and 3-4 times a week for juveniles and egg-laying females. Failure to undertake such dietary supplementation may result in metabolic bone diseases and other such problems.
A shallow water bowl should be available at all times and the water changed daily. They also enjoy the occasional misting of their home and will drink from water droplets. It is important to ensure that this does not cause long periods of high humidity.
Shopping list
Owning a pet is a financial as well as a moral responsibility. In order to properly care for a leoaprd gecko the following items are essential and you should ensure that you are ready to commit to both the one-off and ongoing costs involved with having a pet.
Vivarium
Substrate
Heat lamp/non-light emitting heat source
UV light
Thermometers x 2
Thermostat
Small water bowl
Food bowl
Live foods
Calcium supplement
Vitamin supplement
Cage furnishings
Pet safe disinfectant
Book on leopard gecko care
Pet code of practice
Owning a pet is a responsibility and owners must always ensure that they act in a way that ensures the best welfare for their pet and does not endanger the local ecosystem. Pet’s (companion animals) must never be released into the wild. It is illegal and for most species this will lead to an untimely and possibly lingering death, as they are not native to this country. Any animals or plants that do survive might become harmful to the environment. If you can no longer keep your pet then seek advice at a local pet store, rescue centre or specialist pet club.
Soiled substrate, cage décor and waste water, particularly from fish tanks or amphibian housing, should also be carefully disposed of or treated so that potentially harmful diseases or live food can’t escape into the wild.
Are you ready?
Now that you have made your way through the presentation, it’s time to take the test and move one step closer to proving your knowledge and receiving your certificate.
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