Rabbits
Owning a rabbit as a pet can be a delightful and rewarding experience. They are sociable creatures each having a unique personality and will form strong bonds to their owner with gentle and regular interaction. They can even be kept indoors and be trained to use a litter tray!
Rabbits are social animals and must never be kept alone so if you are thinking of getting a rabbit as a pet then you must plan to have at least two animals and allow for the large space that they need to live. Like all other pets they will need the correct diet and daily attention so you will need to think carefully and consider if a rabbit is right for you.
What next?
View the information below to learn the essentials for owning a rabbit.
Take the test, and when you have passed, you will receive a certificate to show to your pet shop and prove your knowledge.
Information for owning a pet rabbit
The Pet Know How tests are designed to test your basic knowledge of keeping a pet of your choice. They will help you understand the needs of the animal and some of the important things you need to consider if you were to have one as a pet. Once you complete a test you won’t be an expert keeper but you will be in a better position to make an informed decision and decide if you are able, and willing, to take on the responsibility.
In this section, you will find a wealth of knowledge compiled by pet experts to provide you with the valuable information you need regarding owning a rabbit.
Work your way through all the sections, and when you feel ready, register yourself to take the test and earn a certificate that proves your rabbit knowledge.
Introduction
Rabbits can make wonderful pets if cared for correctly. Watching them run, jump and play is a real delight. Rabbits come in different shapes, sizes and colours, and domestic rabbits kept as pets are fundamentally the same as their wild cousins - who live in large social groups and cover an area equivalent to six football pitches every day.
Rabbits typically live for around 7-10 years, although some can live up to 12, so you must be sure you can care for your rabbits for the next decade. If you are buying rabbits for your child, they will be your responsibility.
General care
Rabbits should be kept in neutered pairs or compatible groups, and never on their own – a male and female partnership works best. Rabbits suffer from stress and loneliness if kept alone and they value companionship as much as food. We do not recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together as they have a different set of needs.
Pet rabbits should be allocated some of their owner’s time every day as they enjoy attention, offering them a small treat, gentle handling and stroking are great way to interact and build trust. Long haired rabbits also need daily grooming to avoid health problems.
Choosing your rabbits
There are many varieties of rabbits available that vary greatly in size and temperament. Dwarf lop eared rabbits are very popular due to their appealing looks and docile nature. Although a Dwarf lop is smaller than English or French lops, they can still weigh more than 2kg when fully grown. Longhaired rabbits are less suitable as pets because they need daily grooming, which can be time consuming. Some varieties, such as lops, can be more prone to teeth and ear problems.
They should be active and inquisitive, with bright eyes. There should be no signs of discharge from the mouth, nose or ears which may indicate a tooth or ear problem or a respiratory infection. Lumps around the mouth and jaw may also indicate these issues.
When you handle the rabbit feel your rabbit over hips, ribs and spine, to detect a reasonable but not excessive amount of fat under the skin. A rabbit that appears excessively under- or overweight may have health issues or have been kept in poor conditions.
Rabbits should always be clean, with no wetness, discharge or faeces around their bottom.
Rabbits should be at least 8 weeks old when you get them. When you buy new baby rabbits, feed them the same food they have been used to, alongside plenty of fresh hay and water.
Housing
Rabbits should be provided with a large, spacious enclosure, so they can comfortably stand on their hind legs. An outdoor home should be sturdy, waterproof and raised off the floor by approximately 25cm. It should be placed in a sheltered position so the rabbits are protected from all weathers with a waterproof cover for added protection on cold nights.
A house rabbit’s cage should be placed in a cool room and out of direct sunlight and draughts.
Rabbits are prey animals, so they’re naturally shy, quiet and usually dislike being held above ground level. Children should be encouraged to interact with them at ground level.
Exercise area
Rabbits are active; therefore it is essential they are allowed daily exercise outside their cage, whether in a safe garden enclosure or a rabbit-proof part of your home. An outdoor enclosure should be secure enough to keep the rabbits in as well as other animals out.
An exercise area that is permanently attached to their hutch or cage, which allows rabbits to exercise whenever they please, is recommended. A hutch or cage is not enough for your rabbits, and should be regarded as burrows to rest in as part of a larger living area.
An exercise run on the lawn will allow your rabbits to express normal behaviour, such as running, digging, burrowing, jumping, hiding and grazing. It is important to be aware that your rabbits may dig their way out of a run, so make sure you move it regularly to prevent escapes. Regularly moving the run will also allow your rabbits to have access to fresh grass.
If your rabbits’ run is attached to their hutch and is unable to be moved, it is recommended to pave the floor and provide a digging box and plenty of fresh hay.
All hutches and runs need to be sturdy and predator-proof. Before purchase, check hutches and runs have bolt locks, not swivel locks and ensure the wire is strong.
Bedding and hutch maintenance
A hutch or cage should have a layer of absorbent bedding on the floor with plenty of hay or straw for nesting. Any bedding that becomes wet should be removed daily along with any uneaten fresh foods. A litter tray can be used in the latrine corner, which is easier to clean daily.
Hygiene is extremely important, particularly in summer. If not kept clean the hutch will attract flies and other undesirable pests, so it should be cleaned thoroughly at least once a week. Rabbits often use the same area for their toilet; this means they can be trained to use a litter tray, which can be easily cleaned out daily.
Healthcare
Annual vaccinations against Myxomatosis and another serious disease known as Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) are essential. Unfortunately, it is very easy for rabbits to catch these diseases if not vaccinated. In recent years a new strain of the VHD virus has entered the UK, so two vaccinations are now required annually to protect your rabbits. One will protect against Myxomatosis and VHD1 and the other against VHD2. Discuss this with your ‘rabbit savvy’ vet.
It is important to have rabbits neutered as this helps prevent some behavioural and health issues, and allows for social groupings.
Pet rabbits should be registered with a ‘rabbit savvy’ vet and insured against unexpected veterinary costs as soon as possible.
It is recommended to check your rabbit underneath daily, especially during summer, to ensure they’re clean. All rabbits are at high risk of fly strike, as flies are attracted to soiled areas around the rabbit’s tail, where they lay eggs. If you suspect your rabbit has fly strike, contact your vet immediately. It is also recommended to find a rabbit-friendly vet you can see any rabbit friendly vets in your area on rabbitwelfare.co.uk.
Rabbits are traditionally kept in a hutch, or shed and run outdoors, but are increasingly popular as house pets. If you decide to keep your rabbit indoors it is essential that your home is rabbit-proofed. Be aware of exposed electrical wires, other pets and plants – many of which are poisonous to rabbits. They also chew door frames, furniture and clothes, and so should be supervised at all times.
Food and water
Rabbits should be fed in a way that is as close as possible to their natural diet, which is mostly grass and hay. We also recommend providing some fresh leafy vegetables and a small amount of commercial feed.
A daily healthy diet for adult rabbits should be:
80% grass or hay. This should be available 24/7 from a hay rack if available
15% leafy greens and vegetables, such as kale, carrot tops and broccoli.
5% commercial feed pellets, approximately 1 tablespoon for every kilo of ideal body weight.
Hay provides rabbits with the fibre needed for a healthy gut and helps to prevent dental problems. Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously and so hay helps to keep them at a healthy length.
A wide range of prepared food is available and many are formulated for rabbits of different ages or sizes. Extruded pellets/foods that are at least 18% crude fibre are the best as they are palatable and contain all the required nutritional value. Approximately 1 tablespoon of adult pellets should be fed for every kilo of ideal bodyweight (this could be divided in 2 feedings). Muesli-type foods should be avoided as they will promote selective feeding for the rabbits and this can lead to nutritional imbalances. The amount of pellets will vary according to age and weight: Be very careful not to overfeed as this can lead to obesity. Scatter feeding the pellets will encourage the rabbit to forage and provide enrichment, rather than putting in a food bowl. The manufacturer’s instructions should be followed closely. Young rabbits and giant rabbits especially have special requirements.
Do not change your rabbits’ commercial feed suddenly, as it can cause fatal digestive upsets. A change in food should be done over a period of at least two weeks.
Fresh foods should be given in moderation, a small handful provided each day is ideal. Baby rabbits in particular should only get very small amounts and contrary to popular belief, lettuce should be avoided. Suitable fresh foods include kale, spring greens, broccoli and dandelions. Fresh foods should be washed thoroughly before feeding and should not be allowed to become frosted. Anything that is not eaten should be removed regularly.
Fresh hay should be provided at all times as rabbits’ digestive systems are sensitive and require a large amount of hay to eat.
Fresh water must be available at all times and should be provided both by a gravity-fed bottle and also a bowl.
Shopping list
Owning a pet is a financial as well as a moral responsibility. In order to properly care for a rabbit the following items are essential and you should ensure that you are ready to commit to both the one-off and ongoing costs involved with having a pet.
Large outdoor hutch or shed/indoor cage and puppy panels to create a space big enough for two rabbits to run and jump
Hutch and run cover to protect from extreme weather
Large safe exercise run for the garden
Puppy panels to create an indoor space if applicable
Commercial rabbit food and ceramic food dish
Water bottle, bottle brush and water dish
Good quality feeding hay or freeze dried grass for feeding
Hay rack
Hay or soft dust extracted straw for bedding
Absorbent bedding
Treats
Toys and tunnels
Pet safe disinfectant
Fly repellent
Nail clippers
Litter tray (one per rabbit)
Rabbit care book
Pet code of practice
Owning a pet is a responsibility and owners must always ensure that they act in a way that ensures the best welfare for their pet and does not endanger the local ecosystem. Pet’s (companion animals) must never be released into the wild. It is illegal and for most species this will lead to an untimely and possibly lingering death, as they are not native to this country. Any animals or plants that do survive might become harmful to the environment. If you can no longer keep your pet then seek advice at a local pet store, rescue centre or specialist pet club.
Soiled substrate, cage décor and waste water, particularly from fish tanks or amphibian housing, should also be carefully disposed of or treated so that potentially harmful diseases or live food can’t escape into the wild.
Are you ready?
Now that you have made your way through the presentation, it’s time to take the test and move one step closer to proving your knowledge and receiving your certificate.
But first…
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